tarptent aeon li vs zpacks
But more importantly, the top (or left) side will still start to peel. The Plexamid just is not my thing either I'm afraid, having heard them described as floppy abominations in Scotland.

Yeah, but I think I lost 1 of the stakes. The Tarptent Notch Li, the ZPacks Soloplex, and the Gossamer Gear The One.

And, yes, it will also elongate the holes somewhat.

That would hold, but ugly to have a seam do this. If you start by taping, then you’re probably using 1″ double sided tape in sheer (first diagram below.

– The SS Li fly has more coverage so better at blocking winds. My point was just that Zpacks construction methods don’t really provide a reason to choose their product over someone else’s.

Maybe that is overkill, but it sure feels good to know you have a rugged tent in less than sunshine and calm conditions. The stitched rolled joint simply supported more weight in total. This tells you a lot about the conditions they expect to use the tent in imho. Both are just slightly too small for me (I'm 6' 2" 250lbs). The Tarptent Aeon Li is a single-layer three-season tent with bug-netting, tons of headroom, and a spacious vestibule - all weighing in under a pound! So how do the edges of the DCF not fray if it’s just a simply overlap like that?

– SS Li likely has better construction quality

The ridgeline is bonded with a simple overlapped seam without any stitching. It fits one person, large or small, with ample sleeping space, while preserving a narrow footprint thanks to its innovative strut system.

They all range from about 19 oz to about 21 oz in weight. But you also want to hide the raw edges of the DCF so they don’t fray, so then you’re left with something like the last diagram. But you’ve got stitching and that top piece of tape. Tents have to be well ventilated or they’ll just condense breath inside. What happens is that as you pull on the seam it twists (and this would be particularly pronounced here because the seam is to thick) so it would start to peel the outer layers of tape (middle diagram) and if that was all there was to the seam, these would peel apart until you are left with only the middle bit of tape that is in “sheer” so it won’t peel:

But again, durability, reliability, ruggedness are my focal points.

Like this: I don’t think the additional “top” layer is really required for waterproofness, because stitching through the glue will pretty much seal the actual sewn seams. Trekking pole tip up vs handle up. ” On my TT Moment, I haven’t found the magic formula to get them just right on the first, second, or even third try’. Adding tape on the outside seals the stitching and also improves the strength a lot if the tape overlaps the panels (like the blue line above) so it’s pretty good but not as strong as having the tape right in the seam (red tape) where there is more contact area with the bonding. I seem to remember an ancient thread that came to the conclusion that the simple bonding solution shown above in matthew k’s post was as strong as anything else so why make things more complicated and heavier. Of course, cleaning the needle with a alcohol or acetone rag will be required periodically. “The most immaculately constructed DCF shelter I have ever seen was an MLD Grace Duo Tarp and it didn’t have a single stitch in it’s construction. Locus Gear’s bonding is highly regarded. Even now I think they still do that and just slap some tape over top (I could be wrong). https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/camping-and-hiking/best-ultralight-tent, https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/camping-and-hiking/ultralight-tent/zpacks-duplex-flex-upgrade, https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/camping-and-hiking/ultralight-tent/tarptent-stratospire-li. Then only if you have to, shift the poles, and only go back around to the other side if there might be some flapping in the wind.

I think this is because it's posted by 'Wild West Pacific Coast Trail'.

The only thing it could do would be subject to peel forces, so but it’s an inefficient use of tape.

Standard stuff while sewing. I think MLD normally does sew too (my DCF DuoMid had stitching).

The most immaculately constructed DCF shelter I have ever seen was an MLD Grace Duo Tarp and it didn’t have a single stitch in it’s construction. Home › Forums › Gear Forums › Gear (General) › Tarptent StratoSpire Li vs Zpacks Duplex. With ,.51oz cuben, the seams are probably the strongest part, anyway. Some people accidentally poke holes in tents while installing with the tip up. While sleeping, reading, hanging out, and comfortably sitting up inside the Tarptent Aeon Li, our testers couldn't help but wonder why they would ever go backpacking with a bivy sack again.At a scant .98 pounds, the Aeon weighs less than your average waterproof, bugproof bivy sack and gives you plenty of headroom, as well as a a generously sized vestibule for your stuff. [WTS] Zpacks Plexamid (14.64 oz) & Tarptent Aeon Li (17.46 oz) Sell. – SS Li has nice water resistant zips, Duplex has clips which many folks report being hard to use

– SS Li is more complex to set up. Tape loses a lot of performance such that sudden failure can happen in cold temps. A few more differences/points: Both tents have only been used for 3 nights, and were both bought new earlier this year. I don’t know enough to speak about the benefits of a double wall. Always very picky with camp site selection. I’m hesitant of a bonded only approach because I’ve seen bonded DCF seams creeping over time. Glue creeps in hot (softens slightly) or cold (gets brittle and cracks.)

Don’t know…anyway, covering the seam holes may be overkill. As it creeps, the first stitch picks up picks up pressure (depending on your viewpoint) transferring it to the second stitch. Working with DCF is quite a bit different from traditional tent fabrics, but Henry generally does something really well or not at all.

I’m not sure what MLD uses but obviously it would be some type of tape (rather than a liquid adhesive). This will peel back to the stitching, and then all the force will be on that line of stitching and it becomes the weak point of the seam. Now it’s bomber and leakproof. Both tents are bomber, and I love them dearly, but I need something larger. I remember this guy darwinonthetrail talking on youtube about how he cannot really say anything about his new rainjacket coz it just wouldn't rain for the last 500 miles of his CDT trip. Mine does have a stitched hemmed edge finishing the perimeter of the tarp.

[WTS] Zpacks Plexamid (14.64 oz) & Tarptent Aeon Li (17.46 oz) WTS • Posted by 4 hours ago. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. So then you add more tape on the outside like the 3rd diagram. Page 1 of 2 1 2 Next > FOX160 Thru Hiker. Only the glue between them is different, preventing the join from unrolling. That top piece of tape is going to prevent the peeling on one side (the bottom as you’ve drawn it) because it takes the load, but then the bottom tape isn’t really doing anything. BACKPACKING LIGHT® and the FEATHER/MOUNTAIN icon are registered trademarks granted for exclusive use to Beartooth Media Group, Inc.

I’m sure you know how you’d do it the 10th time: Instead of walking around it twice, adjusting and adjusting… you do one side kind of tight, the whole thing’ll look lopsided, then you do the other side, make any adjustments there. The seam looks like this (image stolen from Dan): The reinforcements at guyout points are bonded without any stitching. Stratospire option for “solid” (1/3 mesh) inner tent for better wind and snowdrift protection. So it’s a lot more complex and heavier that what I’ve drawn, but I don’t think it would function as well. I have started a thread with a short video clip to show how I set up those Pitchloc corners.

Is this clear?

I studied the ridge line seam in particular, and never could quite be certain how it was put together.

FOX160, Feb 19, 2019 #1. gixer Thru Hiker.

A normal flat seam, rolled together with glue, provides this. I think there is an issue with that seam design, which is that a lot of the tape is designed in peel. The actual mechanics of glue creep and “Strength Of the Joint” (SOJ) seem to indicate a combination joint. Tarptent Aeon Li V Zpacks Plexamid comparison. Both are just slightly too small for me (I'm 6' 2" 250lbs). Only the Zpacks Duplex scores higher due to its lightweight, but the StratoSpire holds up better in poor weather. A Basic, Premium, or Unlimited Membership is required to post in the forums. Tarptent StratoSpire Li vs Zpacks Duplex.

They’re fine. Are they tucked under somehow? Tarptent. – Neither is going to be great at shedding snow. I think Zpacks does a normal rolled (flat felled) seam and then slaps tape on the outside, but it’s been a while since I really looked at one. For a tent like the Duplex, sewn and then taped is fine, IMO. As always, I prefer durability/ruggedness over extreme light weight. Get our Handbook - the resource you need to make intelligent decisions about gear, safety, comfort, and pack weight. Plexamid arrived with 1 very small hole near the apex, which I patched on inside and outside with the provided DCF tape (included), and it should last the life of the tent. But, the overall join durability is increased about 2 to 4 times. 12213 Koswyn Ct. Nevada City, CA 95959 USA.

Don't think I'll be buying either of those somehow. I think it would have leaked long before it actually pulled apart…again, you might be right: that the flat joint actually doesn’t leak under greater pressure than a rolled joint. Hey does that aeon li come with the sack for the tent and stakes?

Seems well thought out, might be  generation ahead of everybody else. So ultimately the seam is very strong because of the tape in sheer in the middle, but this load isn’t transferred to here until several other components have failed. Thanks for the reply, Dan. Perhaps tape only is fine as a fairweather shelter. Still experimenting. I haven’t come across this on the website.

So perhaps it’s semantics since if something is good enough then why worry about it further, but still like things to be as good as they can be unless there is a cost to doing that. On my TT Moment, I haven’t found the magic formula to get them just right on the first, second, or even third try.

The Plexamid currently has a 2 week lead time, and the Aeon Li is currently out of stock.

thanks in advance for your replies! Sorry if photos are low res, I have exceptionally slow WiFi. We are very impressed with the performance of the Stratospire in crummy weather, its ease of setup, and spacious design. Factory is going to be the same one that’s making the Big Agnes DCF tents because they have more experience with DCF. This really happens simultaneously from both sides of each panel.

The SOJ will hold up even under a LOT of abrasion, which is what you want.


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